Need a quick rundown on the best bijoux from the Biennale? Here are my thoughts which are running on the nowness.com right now!
The Biennale des Antiquaires at the Grand Palais in Paris is where all the big boys of the art, antique and high jewelry worlds come together to show off. This year marks the 25th edition of the event—here’s what gleams in our eyes.
Master sculptor Philippe Nicolas (who has now officially joined the house) causes a stir with his trio of panthers carved from blocks of petrified wood, their emerald eyes sparkling against an outline of diamonds. The animals are mounted on a necklace of black onyx and diamonds, a bracelet of pearls or a diamond cuff.
Royal gardens are the inspiration for Harry Winston’s collection, but it is an abstract theme. What stands out are the stones: big, bold and beautiful, the settings are designed to let the double-digit-sized gems take center stage. The unexpected hues––bi-color watermelon tourmalines and rich red spinel––give the jewelry an added depth.
This is the first year Piaget has participated in the Biennale and they make quite a splash with rings sculpted to look like real cocktails––a mojito built from a cushion-cut green tourmaline, its slice of lemon a carved citrine; a “Sex On the Beach” made of a pink tourmaline, with a peridot lime. Also debuting is a new line of rings inspired by cupcakes
––the green chrysoprase version of the classic baked treat costs about €10,000.
Chanel shows a collection of classic jewels dominated by clear white diamonds. Snowy plumes embellishes the display windows and there’s a feather-light touch to the designs, all growing organically from a diamond plume pin that Coco Chanel created in 1932.
New kid on the high jewelry block Louis Vuitton turns to the world of travel as a starting point for its collection. Crafting a travel trunk specifically for the Biennale to display its creations, artistic director Lorenz Bäumer adds an unexpected rocker edge in the form of diamond-covered guitars, safety pins and a necklace of musical notes.
The prevalence of knuckle-duster cocktail rings in light bright colors and carved gems at the Biennale––currently a hot jewelry trend––is indicative of the influence of Dior Joaillerie designer Victoire de Castellane. This year Dior introduces 13 new pieces, including a show-stopping turquoise ring wrapped in diamond-headed snakes.