Milan Fashion Week seems to have finally gotten a strong group of young Italian designers on the official calendar and they look ready to bring their country’s craftsmanship to a new generation.
Gabriele Colangelo has distinguished himself in a number of different ways. His continued fascination with modern artists has given him an unusual hook for his collections, while his experimentation with new fabric treatments and weaves shows him to be a very contemporary designer.
This season his artist of choice was Jason Martin, the English artist known for his textural paintings. But the designer paired that influence with a reinterpretation of Christian Dior’s famous New Look silhouette, so jackets with nipped-in waists, rounded shoulders and oval sleeves were crafted out of experimental Lurex and jacquard, mixing matte and shine finishes. With this collection, the designer confirmed hopes that have been rising with each of his previous shows.
Marco de Vincenzo pushed forward the sculptural column idea he introduced last season.
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